Build a Biologique Recherche routine for melasma by starting with Lotion P50 PIGM 400, layering brightening serums, and protecting daily with SPF. This consistent, adaptive approach targets pigmentation and supports long-term skin clarity without irritation.
Melasma is notoriously stubborn, especially if you've already tried prescription creams and nothing worked.
The good news? A well-built Biologique Recherche routine, when tailored correctly, can dramatically reduce discoloration without compromising your skin barrier.
Let’s break it down, step by step.
From Heat To Hormones: Understanding What’s Really Behind Melasma
Let’s talk about melasma, because I see it every single day, and I’ve lived through it myself.
Melasma isn’t just “a few dark spots.” It’s a chronic, stubborn, emotionally draining condition that usually shows up as symmetrical brown patches, often across the cheeks, upper lip, or forehead.
It loves heat, hormones, and sun. And unfortunately, it loves coming back if you’re not careful.
What Triggers Melasma?
The usual suspects:
Hormonal fluctuations (think pregnancy, birth control, perimenopause)
Heat and UV exposure (yes, even through windows or while cooking)
Overexfoliation or inflammation (especially from using too many acids or mixing incompatible products)
Genetics, clients with olive, Middle Eastern, South Asian, or Latina skin tones are often more prone
I’ve had clients come in thinking their skin was just “sun damaged” or “freckly,” when it was clearly melasma.
That misdiagnosis matters, because melasma doesn’t behave like other forms of pigmentation, and treating it the wrong way can make it worse.
Can Melasma Be Cured?
Here’s the truth: melasma can’t be “cured” in the traditional sense. But it can be managed beautifully. I’ve seen clients reduce their pigment to almost nothing and keep it that way, if they stay consistent and smart about their routines.
How To Prevent Or Reduce Melasma Flare-Ups
Here’s where I get a little passionate, because prevention is where most people fail. And I get it, SPF is boring. But if you skip this part, even the best products won’t help.
Stay out of direct sunlight (yes, even in winter)
Reapply SPF every 2 hours (especially if you're near windows or screens)
Use parasols, oversized sunglasses, and hats like it’s your religion
Don’t overdo exfoliation, P50 is plenty; more is not better
Build a routine that calms, hydrates, and regulates melanin, not one that strips or shocks your skin
Why Biologique Recherche For Melasma?
Because it works with your skin, not against it.
BR is clinical, cold-formulated, and insanely smart. The PIGM line, in particular, is one of the most powerful systems I’ve ever used for melasma-prone skin. But here’s the thing, results depend entirely on how you build the routine.
This is where I come in. At KarinaNYC, we don’t sell you a basket of products and wish you luck.
We guide you, step by step, so you’re not accidentally layering P50 with retinoids or sabotaging your results with a harsh Vitamin C. Because one wrong product, or one hot day with no hat, can set you back months.
Your Complete Biologique Recherche Routine for Melasma
Let me walk you through the exact routine I build for my melasma clients, because when it comes to pigmentation, precision is everything. Melasma doesn’t just fade with a “brightening” cream. It takes a multi-layered, disciplined routine designed to calm inflammation, regulate melanin, and protect your progress.
1. Cleanse: Lait Cleanser
Start your day with a cleanser that respects your skin barrier. For melasma-prone skin, cleansing isn't about stripping, it's about preparing the skin gently.
Lait E.V. is ideal for dry, sensitive skin types. It nourishes while removing impurities, leaving your skin soft and calm.
Lait S.R. works beautifully for combination or oily skin. It balances sebum without disrupting the skin’s pH, which is critical when dealing with pigmentation.
Lait Dermo-S is my go-to when the skin feels reactive, sensitized, or post-procedure. It’s ultra-calming and perfect during melasma flare-ups.
Pick the one that best matches your skin’s current state, because with Biologique Recherche, we always treat what we see.
2. Tone: Lotion P50 PIGM 400
This is the cornerstone. Unlike harsh acids, P50 PIGM 400 exfoliates gently with lactic and mandelic acid while regulating pigment production. Think of it as a daily reset button that keeps melanin activity in check without inflaming your skin.
3. Treat: Sérum PIGM 400
Serum PIGM 400 is loaded with antioxidants, brighteners, and pigment-blockers. It’s not a quick-fix bleach, it works gradually, building resilience while fading dark spots over time.
Bonus: it protects against free radical damage, which is a major trigger for melasma.
4. Moisturize: Crème PIGM 400
This is your protective layer.
With ingredients like Watercress, Wasabi, and Vitamin E, Creme PIGM 400 keeps your skin hydrated while reinforcing the brightening effects of the serum. It’s especially good if your skin leans dry or reactive.
3. Serum: Extraits Tissulaires
If your skin is dehydrated or flaring, go with Extraits Tissulaires, a lightweight hydrator that also helps regulate oil.
4. Masking (2–3x/week)
This is where we dial it in.
Masque Vivant + L’Eauxygénante: Balances sebum, reduces inflammation, and re-oxygenates skin. A cult favorite for a reason.
Masque Biosensible: If your melasma flares with heat or stress, this is your go-to. It calms on contact and pairs beautifully with any redness-reducing serum.
5. Protect: Mineral SPF + Parasol/Hat (AM)
Melasma cannot improve if you're exposed to unprotected light.
That includes blue light, heat from cooking, and cloudy days. Physical sunscreen, wide-brimmed hats, and parasols are non-negotiable.
Patience Pays Off: Your Skincare Timeline For Clearer Skin
Let’s set some realistic expectations, because managing melasma isn’t a sprint, it’s a marathon. And like all things worth doing well, it requires patience, consistency, and the right guidance.
First 2 Weeks: The Reset Phase
You might feel some tingling with Lotion P50 PIGM 400 or notice a bit of purging. That’s normal, your skin is detoxing and recalibrating.
This is not the time to get experimental. Do not layer retinol or outside acids. Keep it gentle.
Focus on barrier support with Masque Biosensible or Serum TEWL if needed. Your skin is learning how to regulate melanin the right way.
Weeks 3–6: The Calm Before The Shift
You’ll likely notice fewer new patches and more even tone starting to peek through.
Now is the time to stay consistent, don’t skip days, and don’t start mixing in trendy TikTok products. I know how tempting it is to add in more brighteners or double down on actives, but trust me: restraint is what pays off.
Weeks 6–12: The Fade Begins
This is when pigmentation starts to soften. Your skin tone becomes more uniform, and your confidence starts creeping back in.
Masking regularly (2–3 times per week) becomes non-negotiable here, Masque Vivant for balancing, Masque Biosensible for calming. And don’t even think about going without SPF.
Beyond 3 Months: Management Mode
Clients always ask, “Is it gone for good?” My answer? If you're consistent, yes, it can stay away. But melasma is sneaky.
It flares with heat, hormones, and light, so you’re not “done.” You’re managing. The great news? Once you're in this phase, you’ve done the hard part. Maintenance becomes easier and more intuitive.
Why Melasma Progress Can Stall (Even When You’re “Doing Everything Right”)
I wish I could tell you that once you start a great routine, it’s smooth sailing, but melasma is a shapeshifter.
When that happens, it’s almost always due to one (or more) of these silent saboteurs:
1. Inconsistent SPF Habits
Wearing sunscreen most days or applying it once in the morning just doesn’t cut it. Melasma responds to any form of light, UV, heat, blue light from screens, even indoor exposure.
Reapplication every two hours (yes, even indoors) is essential. Skipping this step resets your progress to zero.
2. Mixing Conflicting Actives
BR is precise, and it doesn’t play well with everything. Mixing Lotion P50 with glycolic acid, retinol, or even certain Vitamin C serums from other brands can trigger inflammation and rebound pigmentation.
If you’re going to blend routines, it has to be done strategically and with professional guidance.
3. DIY Skincare Experiments
Look, I love an educated client. But your skin isn’t a lab, and Pinterest isn’t a medical journal.
I’ve seen beautiful progress get undone by a single night of layering a trending acid or TikTok “hack” over your BR routine. The skin freaks out, inflammation kicks in, and pigment flares. Stay the course. Simplicity wins.
Feeling Stuck? Here’s What You Might Be Missing
Even with the best products, progress can stall, and it’s frustrating. Before you give up, let’s unpack the hidden mistakes that might be sabotaging your melasma routine.
Is It Normal For Faded Areas To Stay Pink?
Absolutely. That pinkish tone is your skin healing. Give it time, those areas usually blend out with continued care.
Will Sunscreen Alone Prevent Melasma?
No. It’s essential, but sunscreen without melanin regulators is like locking the door but leaving the windows open. You need both defense and correction.
Why Do I Feel Worse After Starting?
You’re not alone. Melasma is emotional.
There’s often a purge or sensitivity in the beginning. That’s why I recommend Masque Biosensible and Serum TEWL; together, they calm the skin and stabilize your progress so you don’t give up too soon.
Ready For Real Results? Work With KarinaNYC
Melasma isn’t just a cosmetic concern, it can chip away at your confidence, make you second-guess every product you use, and leave you feeling like nothing ever works.
I know, because I’ve lived through it with my clients, and for some, with my own skin. That’s why “just buy this” isn’t our approach.
At KarinaNYC, we specialize in real solutions for real skin, especially for women who are serious about aging beautifully and managing stubborn pigmentation the right way.
No guesswork, no generic kits, no sales pressure.Just expert care and protocols that work.
🌞 PIGM 400 Routine Consultation
Sit down (virtually or in-clinic) and get a personalized routine built for your skin’s pigment pattern, lifestyle, and triggers. I guide you through every step, so you never feel lost again.
🧪 Authentic BR Product Access
When you shop with KarinaNYC, you're getting Biologique Recherche products that are properly stored, cold-shipped, and hand-selected. No fakes, no gray market, no damaged formulas, ever.
🧖♀️ Advanced Pigmentation Facial
This isn’t your average spa facial. We use BR’s PIGM actives, oxygen therapy, cryo-stimulation, and advanced layering techniques to kickstart pigment fading safely, even for sensitive, melasma-prone skin.
You don’t have to live with uneven tone, flare-ups, or the emotional weight that comes with stubborn melasma.
💬Book your consultation or shop the essentials now at Karinanyc.com.
Let’s rebuild your skin. And your confidence.
