Lotion P50 is not just a toner, it’s a skincare phenomenon.
Loved by celebrities and skin experts alike, this exfoliating powerhouse refines texture, brightens complexion, and balances oil.
Why Everyone Raves About P50 Lotion
If there's one product I’ve seen change skin more dramatically than any other, it’s Lotion P50.
We call it "facial in a bottle" for a reason. It’s the secret behind that lit-from-within glow you see on the red carpet and why so many of our clients at KarinaNYC come back saying, “I don’t know what’s in this stuff, but my skin has never looked better.”
It’s not just hype.
P50 has reached cult status among estheticians, facialists, and skincare fanatics because it does the work of multiple steps in one, it:
exfoliates gently yet effectively
helps regulate oil production
balances the pH of your skin
improves radiance, all without glycolic acid, which can be too harsh for many
Instead, it uses a blend of AHA, BHA, and PHA acids like lactic, malic, citric, and salicylic to slough off dead skin cells and clear congestion.
I’ve been using P50 for over 20 years, and yes, my skin is better now in my 50s than it was in my 30s. It smooths texture, tightens pores, evens out tone, and gives your skin that ultra-clean, radiant, almost “glass” finish.
Which P50 Variant Is Right For You?
Not all P50s are created equal, and picking the right one for your skin is where the magic starts.
So let’s break it down. Each version of P50 is carefully formulated to match different skin types and goals. What they all share is that beautiful acid blend of AHA, BHA, and PHA, but their intensity and ingredients vary.
Variant | Best For | Karina’s Notes |
P50V | Normal to mature or slightly sensitive skin | Think of this as the “middle child”, balanced and effective. I love this for clients starting to see aging signs but still want that youthful glow. |
P50W | Sensitive, reactive, rosacea-prone skin | This is your gentle entry point for beginners and people with sensitive skin. I’ve recommended it to so many clients with compromised skin barriers. It has very minimal sting - but still delivers real, visible results. |
PIGM400 | Hyperpigmentation, dullness | Targeted brightening is the name of the game. If melasma, acne scarring, or uneven tone is your concern, this is your go-to. Bonus: it has a neutral scent. |
P50 | For normal to oily or combination skin | Not as soft as W, just a classic, well-rounded exfoliant. Works beautifully for clients who want results without the drama. |
Still unsure which one to choose?
That’s what consultations are for, we’ve been guiding clients through these choices for over 20 years, and we’ll make sure you don’t play guessing games with your skin.
Where Does P50 Fit In Your Skincare Routine?
I can’t tell you how many clients have come in saying, “Karina, I bought P50 but I don’t think it’s doing anything…”
And nine times out of ten? They’re either using too much, using it too often, or applying it at the wrong step. So let’s clear this up.
P50 is your exfoliating step.
It should always come right after cleansing, and only ever on dry skin. Never damp.
Applying acids on moist skin intensifies penetration, and that’s not always a good thing, especially if your skin is new to actives.
Here’s how I recommend it:
Morning Routine
Your morning skincare sets the tone for the day, and with P50 in the mix, you’re giving your skin the perfect balance of exfoliation and protection. Here’s how I guide clients through a well-rounded Biologique Recherche morning ritual:
Gentle Cleanser
Recommended: Lait E.V.
This luxurious cleanser is rich in vitamins E and F, and ideal for devitalized or mature skin. It removes impurities while nourishing the epidermis, making it perfect before using P50.
I recommend it for clients who want to start their day with hydration and softness, especially in cooler climates or drier skin conditions.
Exfoliating Toner
Recommended: Lotion P50 (variant based on your skin type)
Apply with gauze using the press-and-release method. This step balances your pH, exfoliates dead skin, and boosts circulation. It’s your foundation for glow. Let it absorb fully, this is not a step to rush.
Hydrating Serum
Recommended: Serum Colostrum VG (for dry and aging skin), Amniotique VG (for dehydrated normal skin) and Sérum Extraits Tissulaires (for dehydrated and seborrheic skin)
After exfoliation, your skin is primed to drink up hydration. These serums deliver elasticity, bounce, and barrier support, without heaviness. They’re staples at KarinaNYC, especially during seasonal transitions.
Moisturizer
Recommended: Crème Dermopurifiante (for oily/congested skin) or Crème Hydravit’S (for dehydrated, city-stressed skin)
This cream is like an energy boost for your skin. It’s packed with cellular oligopeptides and plant extracts that revitalize tired complexions, especially if you’re exposed to pollution, screen time, or stress. I recommend it for clients who feel like their skin looks “meh” even when they’re doing everything right.
Sunscreen
Recommended: A gentle, mineral-based SPF
P50 increases your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. No matter how clean or hydrated your skin is, if you’re not wearing SPF, you’re undoing your progress.
Evening Routine
Evening is the perfect time to treat and restore. Your skin does its best repair work overnight, and when you skip retinol, P50 becomes your main event.
Here's how I guide my KarinaNYC clients through their nightly ritual for renewal and balance.
Cleanser
Recommended: Lait S.R.
This is a brilliant option for oily or breakout-prone skin. It deeply cleans without stripping, purifies the pores, and balances sebum production.
I often recommend Lait S.R. to clients who want a fresh, matte, but never dry, canvas before applying P50. Ideal for evening use when your skin has collected grime, makeup, and pollution throughout the day.
Exfoliating Toner
Recommended: Lotion P50 (use your correct variant)
At night, your skin is more receptive to treatment. Press and release with gauze, never rub, and let P50 settle in. This step helps clear congestion, refine texture, and prep your skin to absorb the rest of your routine.
Targeted Serum
Recommended: Serum Placenta (for post-acne marks and reduced redness) or Serum Elastine (for fine lines and wrinkles)
This is where your routine becomes personal. Whether your goal is healing, evening out tone, or smoothing skin, one of these serums will help you wake up to noticeable improvement.
Moisturizer
Recommended: Crème Masque Vernix (for barrier repair and overnight glow)
A KarinaNYC holy grail. This cream-mask hybrid mimics the skin’s original barrier and deeply nourishes tired or overworked skin. I love using this when skin needs a reset, it’s rich, restorative, and leaves you glowing by morning.
Tip From Karina:
If you’re new, start 2–3 times per week and increase only if your skin loves it. Think of it like building a workout routine, you don’t run a marathon on day one!
And please, don’t swipe.
I know it’s tempting, but the key with P50 is that press-and-release motion. It allows the acids to work without dragging or irritating the skin. I’ve seen clients go from red and reactive to glowing in two weeks just by switching up their application technique.
How to Apply Lotion P50: Step-By-Step Guide
Okay, let’s talk technique, because how you apply P50 matters just as much as how often.
What To Do
Pour 2 light splashes onto a cotton pad or, better yet, cotton gauze (I prefer gauze because it doesn’t absorb too much product and glides more evenly).
Start at your neck or chest and press gently upward in a “press-and-release” motion, no rubbing!
Pay extra attention to areas where you have congestion or uneven texture, like your nose, chin, and forehead.
If you’re prone to redness, avoid the apple of your cheeks, trust me, they don’t need extra stimulation.
Don’t forget your lips, they love gentle exfoliation too. Then wash your hands and move on.
What NOT To Do
Do not swipe, drag, or scrub. This isn’t witch hazel from the drugstore, it’s an acid blend, and it works without force.
Don’t layer P50 with other exfoliants (like glycolic, salicylic, or enzyme products).
Avoid retinol in the same routine. If you love both, alternate nights. It’s about synergy, not overload.
“Can I use it every day?”
Yes, but not right away. I always recommend starting 2 to 3 times a week, then gradually increasing. Listen to your skin. If it starts to feel tight, dry, or overly flushed, dial it back.
This isn’t a race, it’s a ritual.
What Not To Use With Lotion P50
Let’s get one thing clear: P50 is powerful.
It doesn’t play well with everyone, and that’s not a flaw, it’s intentional. Think of it as the star of your routine. When P50’s on stage, other actives need to take a step back.
Don’t overcomplicate your routine. When you’re using a formula as active as this one, you need to protect your skin barrier, not attack it from every angle.
Skip These When Using P50
Retinol or Tretinoin: I know you love them. I do too. But not together. Using both in the same routine is asking for irritation, flaking, and a compromised barrier. Alternate nights if you’re using both.
Other Chemical Exfoliants: That includes glycolic acid, mandelic, lactic, or exfoliating masks. P50 already covers that base.
Vitamin C Serums: Only use with P50 if your skin is experienced. New users? Keep it simple until your skin adjusts.
“I’m worried about barrier damage from overuse.”
You’re right to be cautious. If your skin feels tight, red, or hot, it’s your cue to pull back. Use P50 less frequently, or buffer it with a layer of moisturizer underneath until your skin adjusts.
Yes, you can apply it after moisturizer if you're extra sensitive. That’s a pro trick we often use in the studio.
The goal is progress, not perfection. Beautiful skin isn’t built overnight, it’s built with intention. And P50, when used with the right rhythm, gives you results that last.
Where to Buy & Why You Should Start Using P50
Still wondering if this cult-favorite toner is worth it? Here’s what I’ll tell you:
P50 has a proven track record for smoother, clearer, brighter skin.
When used properly, it’s easy to integrate into your current routine.
And with multiple variants, it’s one of the most customizable, skin-specific products I’ve ever worked with.
But please, don’t buy just anywhere. There are too many gray market sellers out there, and with a product this active, you want it fresh, safe, and authentic.
Pro Tip: Buy from trusted sources. KarinaNYC is proud to be one of the few authorized Biologique Recherche distributors in the U.S.
Your P50 Journey Starts Here
Lotion P50 is skincare gold, but only if you respect the formula. It’s not a one-size-fits-all product, and that’s what makes it so powerful.
When you choose the right variant, use the correct technique, and introduce it with intention, it rewards you with skin that feels cleaner, smoother, brighter, and truly balanced.
KarinaNYC has helped thousands of clients find their rhythm with P50, and the results speak for themselves. Whether you’re navigating acne, dullness, pigmentation, or simply want to level up your skincare routine, P50 might just be your holy grail.
