Apply Lotion P50V after cleansing by patting with a damp cotton pad, once daily to start. It exfoliates, balances pH, and preps skin for serums. But it only works if used correctly.
KarinaNYC’s expert guidance makes the difference between glowing results and compromised skin.
In this guide, we break down the right technique, when and how to use it, and how to tailor it to your skin’s unique needs. Let’s dive in.
Lotion P50V: The Exfoliating Toner That Changes Everything
Despite the name, Lotion P50V is not a lotion.
It’s a vitamin-infused chemical exfoliant, a powerhouse toner packed with AHAs, BHAs, PHAs, niacinamide, and other active ingredients that gently resurface your skin while feeding it essential nutrients.
Think of it as a reset button for your face, every single day.
P50V is my go-to formula for aging beautifully. It’s designed for more mature or combination skin, especially if you’re battling dullness, fine lines, or those stubborn hormonal breakouts that show up at the worst times.
It’s gentle enough to use regularly, but strong enough to actually work. This isn’t for baby-soft beginner skin or ultra-sensitive types (for that, I recommend starting with P50W).
What makes it special is the French approach: balance and consistency over brutality. No harsh stripping, no aggressive peels, just a slow, deliberate reconditioning of the skin barrier.
KarinaNYC guides clients to use P50V as part of a thoughtful, personalized routine, because using it wrong can absolutely cause more harm than good. Used right? It’s magic.
And yes, I’ve used it myself for over 15 years. My skin is better today than it was when I started. That’s the P50 effect.
Avoid the Burnout: How to Make Lotion P50V Work for Your Skin
When I introduce clients to Lotion P50V, I treat it like skincare training wheels. This isn’t a product you rush into, it’s one you grow into.
That’s how you avoid irritation and get the glowing, smooth, “what-are-you-using?” results we all want.
Week 1: Go Low And Slow
Start with once-a-day use, at night only.
Always apply P50V to freshly cleansed skin, I recommend using Lait Dermo-S or Lait E.V. from Biologique Recherche. Both are nourishing, non-stripping cleansers that gently cleanse without compromising your skin’s barrier.
Here’s the trick: moisten your cotton pad with water first.
That’s not just to dilute the formula, it’s to protect your barrier while your skin gets used to the exfoliating acids.
Pat (don’t swipe!) the dampened pad across your face, avoiding lips and eyes. Think of it like tapping in a treatment, not wiping off makeup.
Week 2: Increase Gradually
If your skin is tolerating it well, you can begin morning and evening use in the second week. Switch to a dry cotton pad if you're not seeing redness or sensitivity.
But listen to your skin, not your calendar. If your skin feels tight, irritated, or raw, scale back.
Remember: your routine should serve your skin, not punish it.
Week 3 And Beyond: Tailor To Your Skin’s Needs
By this point, many clients settle into using P50V once or twice daily.
But frequency isn’t one-size-fits-all. I adjust based on what’s happening in your life. Traveling? Stressed? Hormonal breakout week? Sometimes you need to cut back. Sometimes you need to lean in.
After P50V, I always layer hydration back in.
My go-to is Amniotique VG for lightweight hydration or Colostrum VG if your skin is feeling dry, tight, or compromised.
Then seal it in with Crème Dermo-RL if your skin needs lipid support or Crème Biofixine if you’re targeting fine lines.
What You’re Probably Wondering About P50V (Answered)
Your skin speaks, and P50V is just the start of the conversation. Let me walk you through a few of the most typical concerns I hear with my clients:
Can I Use It With Tretinoin?
No. These two don’t play nice.
Acids and vitamin A compounds (like tretinoin or retinol) should be spaced out by at least 12 to 24 hours. Use one in the morning, the other at night, or alternate nights entirely. Never layer.
Do I Rinse It Off?
No. Lotion P50V is a leave-on treatment. Apply it, let it dry, and continue with your serums and creams.
How Much Should I Use?
A few dabs on a cotton pad. That’s it. You’re not soaking the pad, it should feel damp, not dripping.
Overuse can backfire by drying or inflaming your skin.
Will It Purge My Skin?
Possibly. Especially in the first few weeks. That’s because it accelerates cell turnover and brings hidden congestion to the surface.
But it’s also where a lot of people panic. If breakouts feel hot, painful, or persistent beyond three weeks, you may be reacting, not purging.
That’s where KarinaNYC steps in to help adjust the plan.
My Skin Stings, Am I Damaging It?
A little tingling is normal, especially at first. That’s your skin adjusting to the drop in pH.
But burning? That’s a red flag. You may be applying it too often, too much, or with an already-compromised barrier.
If the sensation feels sharp or uncomfortable, try misting L’Eauxygénante immediately after P50V. It calms without interfering.
I Broke Out, Should I Stop?
Not necessarily. Breakouts in the first 1–3 weeks may be part of the purging process. P50V speeds up cell turnover, so buried congestion can come to the surface fast.
If it feels inflamed, reduce usage to every other day and increase hydration, Sérum Tissulaires is my go-to here.
And no, don’t pick. Please don’t pick.
Can I Use This Around My Eyes Or Lips?
Absolutely not. The skin there is way too thin.
Stick to your T-zone, cheeks, and jawline. I sometimes let clients edge just under the brow bone after their skin is trained and calm, but never on delicate areas without guidance.
Where Lotion P50V Fits Into Your Routine (With BR Product Pairings)
At KarinaNYC, we don’t do cookie-cutter skincare. Every routine is customized to your Skin Instant, because what your skin needs in winter won’t be the same in summer, and what works in NYC humidity might not work on vacation in the Alps.
Lotion P50V isn’t a solo act. It’s the conductor of your whole routine. Here’s how I typically build a BR routine around P50V, step by step:
Step 1: Cleanse With Lait
Start with a milky cleanser to gently remove debris, sunscreen, and makeup without stripping your barrier.
Lait E.V. is ideal for dry or mature skin.
Lait S.R. balances sebum and soothes inflammation for oily or breakout-prone skin.
Lait Dermo-S is perfect for sensitive, reactive skin.
Clean skin is needed before applying any acids.
Step 2: Apply Lotion P50V
Pat P50V into the skin using a cotton pad (damp or dry depending on your tolerance).
This is where the real transformation begins, P50V exfoliates, rebalances your pH, and preps your skin to absorb the next steps more effectively.
Step 3: Hydrate With Sérum Amniotique Or Extraits Tissulaires
After exfoliation, skin is thirsty. Sérum Amniotique is my go-to for drier climates or sensitive days, lightweight but deeply hydrating. Extraits Tissulaires is great if you need balance and bounce without adding oil.
Step 4: Moisturize With Crème Dermo-RL Or Crème Biofixine
Now that your skin is exfoliated and hydrated, it’s time to lock it all in.
Crème Dermo-RL is my go-to for dry, depleted, or barrier-compromised skin, it’s rich, restorative, and gives your skin that "comfortable" feeling all day.
If you’re looking to smooth fine lines and firm the skin, Crème Biofixine delivers visible results without feeling heavy.
Choose based on how your skin feels right now, not just your type.
Step 5: Mask With Masque Visolastine (2x/week)
Use it right after P50V, before serums, if your skin is breaking out or feeling sluggish. Use Masque Visolastine for hydration or Masque Biofixine for firming.
It’s like a juice cleanse for your face, but it actually works.
Step 6: Seal It In Grand Millesime Serum (Night Only)
To finish your nighttime routine, use a lipid-rich, anti-aging serum like Grand Millésime or Complexe Royal.
They lock in hydration, support the barrier, and add a luminous finish without heaviness. It’s the final step that ties your routine together.
✨ Pro tip from me: If you’re also using a sheet mask, apply it after P50V and before serums. Your skin is primed to absorb nutrients more deeply at that point.
Just make sure the mask doesn’t contain exfoliating ingredients, P50V already did that work.
How Fast Does P50V Work? Let’s Break It Down
Results come with consistency, not miracles. Lotion P50V is a performance product, not a quick fix, and that’s a good thing.
When you use it right, the glow doesn’t just show up. It stays.
Week 1: A Subtle Shift Begins
Your skin might feel a little tingly post-application, that’s the formula working to rebalance your pH.
Some clients describe a faint flush or tightness, which usually fades within minutes. Look closely and you’ll begin to see your tone look slightly more even, less dull. It’s subtle, but it’s real.
This is your skin’s reset button starting to take effect.
Week 2: Detox Mode (A.K.A. The Purge)
If your skin has been holding onto congestion, get ready: this is when impurities start surfacing.
You may experience small breakouts, especially around the chin or jawline. That’s not a bad reaction, it’s your skin purging what’s been trapped beneath.
Don’t panic, and definitely don’t quit.
Keep going, use Masque Vivant 2x per week to support detox, and lean into hydration to balance it out. Within days, your pores will start to look clearer, and inflammation will calm.
Week 3–4: The Glow-Up Starts Showing
Texture? Smoother. Tone? Brighter. Breakouts? Slowing.
By now, you’ll feel it before you see it, your skin feels more refined, your products absorb better, and even your makeup sits differently.
Most clients notice their skin becoming more self-sufficient, less shiny during the day, more even-toned in the morning.
If you're consistent and supporting your barrier with the right moisturizer (Crème Dermo-RL or Biofixine), you're about to hit your stride.
Month 2 And Beyond: Skin That Maintains Itself
Your pores look tighter, fine lines are softened, and your skin becomes more predictable, in the best way. No more sudden breakouts from stress or travel.
Your glow isn’t just surface-level anymore. It’s structural.
You’re building resilience, daily. And the best part? Once you're here, skincare becomes maintenance, not damage control. That’s the sweet spot, and it’s where I want every client to live.
Ready To Get Serious About Your Skin? Work With KarinaNYC
If you’ve made it this far, chances are you’re not looking for another quick-fix serum or influencer-hyped product that leaves you guessing.
You want skin that actually gets better, not just looks better under makeup. And that’s exactly where Lotion P50V shines.
But even the best product will fail if used the wrong way. That’s why my approach at KarinaNYC is different.
We don’t just hand you a bottle, we coach you through every step so you know exactly what to expect, how to adjust, and when to pivot.
Whether you’re navigating hormonal acne, early signs of aging, or just tired of wasting money on skincare that overpromises and underdelivers, we’ve got you.
Here’s how we can get started together:
✅ Free Virtual Consultations
Get personalized product recommendations from real experts (not a chatbot). We assess your skin instant, not just your skin type.
🧴 Curated BR Starter Kits
I hand-assemble each kit with precisely what your skin needs, no fluff, no filler. Just essentials that work together, beautifully.
👩⚕️ Post-Purchase Support
We don’t disappear once you buy. You’ll have access to my team via text or DM for real-time troubleshooting, adjustments, and progress checks.
Skincare is personal. So is what we do. Let’s make your skin the best it’s ever been, together.
