Niacinamide can’t shrink pores, but it minimizes their appearance by reducing oil, improving elasticity, and calming inflammation. Consistent use reveals smoother, more refined skin.
Pores are one of the most misunderstood skin concerns, especially when it comes to what truly makes them look smaller. While nothing can shrink a pore, niacinamide is one of the few ingredients that can visibly refine them with consistent use.
At KarinaNYC, we see this transformation daily. In this guide, you’ll learn what works, what doesn’t, and how to build a routine that supports clear, balanced skin. Let’s dive in.
The Pore Problem: Why They Appear Larger (And What You Can Actually Fix)
Pores are one of the most stubborn skin concerns, even for clients with great routines. I see it constantly: smooth foundation, dedicated skincare, but the texture still feels off.
Most of the time, it’s not “bad pores”, it’s skin that’s not being supported properly.
Pores are essential, not flaws. But when they’re filled with dead skin, excess oil, or layered with the wrong products, they stretch. Factor in age and sun exposure, and now you’re also dealing with sagging and collagen loss.
You can’t shrink a pore, but with the right strategy, you can absolutely soften their appearance.
What Makes Pores Look Bigger?
Pores are essential to healthy skin, but when they appear enlarged, they can dominate your complexion. From excess oil to sun damage and poor product choices, several factors make pores look more noticeable.
The good news? Most are manageable, once you understand what’s causing them and how to treat them effectively.
- Excess Oil Production
Overactive sebaceous glands fill pores with oil, making them stretch and appear larger. - Dead Skin Buildup
Without proper exfoliation, dead skin clogs the surface, trapping oil and worsening texture. - Aging and Decreased Elasticity
As collagen breaks down, the skin loses firmness and support , pores begin to “droop.” - Incorrect Product Combinations
Yes, even “good” products can go wrong when used together. Some combos irritate or congest the skin, worsening pore visibility. - UV Damage Weakening Collagen Structure
Sun is the silent saboteur. It depletes collagen and elastin, making pores more prominent over time.
Can Niacinamide Actually Help?
Absolutely, but let’s set the right expectation. Niacinamide won’t “shrink” your pores. What it does is far more elegant.
It controls oil production, so your pores stay clear and unburdened. It calms inflammation, reducing redness and acne-triggered stretching. And most importantly, it supports your skin’s elasticity, helping it hold its shape and stay smooth.
When we incorporate niacinamide properly into a client's routine, we often hear the same thing after a few weeks: “My skin just looks better.” That’s no accident, it’s what happens when we stop overloading the skin and start giving it what it actually needs.
Using Niacinamide Right: A Pore-Smart Skincare Breakdown
If there's one ingredient I reach for again and again to help clients refine their skin, it's niacinamide.
When used properly, it can do wonders; not by forcing your skin into submission, but by rebalancing it so your pores stay clear, calm, and less noticeable.
What Niacinamide Actually Does For Your Skin
1. Regulates Sebum Production
Pores stretch when they’re overloaded with oil. Niacinamide gently nudges overactive oil glands back into balance. I’ve seen clients go from greasy by noon to comfortably matte all day , not dry, just balanced.
2. Calms Inflammation
Inflammation is a huge culprit behind pore distortion. When skin is angry , from breakouts, reactions, even stress , pores swell. Niacinamide is like a deep breath for irritated skin. It helps soothe redness, tone down flare-ups, and prevent that cycle of stress-breakout-scar that leaves pores looking worse.
3. Supports Skin Elasticity
Think of elasticity like the scaffolding around each pore. If the skin loses structure, pores look slack and saggy. Niacinamide supports your skin’s natural collagen and elastin production so things stay firm, lifted, and smooth.
4. Boosts Barrier Function
If your skin’s barrier is damaged (from over-exfoliating, over-cleansing, or climate stress), pores will be the first to show it. Niacinamide strengthens your skin’s defenses, locks in hydration, and helps your face look dewy instead of rough.
What’s Sabotaging Your Niacinamide Routine
Despite all the benefits, I’ve seen niacinamide backfire; not because it’s a bad ingredient, but because of how it’s used.
- Layering Multiple Niacinamide Products Unknowingly
Many people use a serum, moisturizer, SPF , all with niacinamide. Too much of a good thing leads to irritation or even bigger-looking pores. You don’t need five layers of it. You need the right one. - Jumping to 20% Formulas Without Patch Testing
Just because a product says “20% niacinamide” doesn’t mean it’s more effective. In fact, for many skin types, that’s where irritation starts. I usually recommend starting around 5% and watching how your skin responds. - Using It During Barrier Flare-Ups
Niacinamide is calming, yes, but only when your barrier is intact. Applying it to already irritated skin can sting and cause more redness. We often adjust routines during flare-ups at KarinaNYC to let skin settle before reintroducing actives. - Expecting Overnight Results
Niacinamide isn’t a quick fix. It’s a consistency ingredient , think 4 to 12 weeks for real changes. I always say: “Skincare is like the gym , if you show up consistently, your skin will reward you.”
Smart Pairings For Pore Refinement
To get the most out of niacinamide, combine it with the right supporting ingredients , but be strategic.
- Retinol (PM)
Helps with cell turnover and collagen production. I often pair this with niacinamide to reduce irritation, they’re a great nighttime duo. - Salicylic Acid
BHA keeps pores clean and clear. But be careful: don’t layer this on the same day as high-dose niacinamide unless your skin is seasoned. - Hyaluronic Acid
Hydration is everything for pore appearance. Layer it under or after niacinamide to plump and protect. - Vitamin C (AM)
Despite outdated myths, niacinamide and vitamin C can play well together. We recommend spacing them out (vitamin C in the morning, niacinamide in the evening) for best results.
Let’s Clear This Up: What You’re Really Asking About Niacinamide
Pore concerns come up in nearly every consultation I do, and the questions are usually the same. If you’ve been layering products, trying actives, and still not seeing results, let’s clear things up.
Here’s what you’re really asking and why it matters.
Why Are My Pores Bigger After Using 20% Niacinamide?
If you jumped to a high concentration too fast , or unknowingly layered multiple niacinamide products , irritation might be causing inflammation and oil imbalance, which makes pores look worse.
Should I Cycle Niacinamide Or Use It Daily?
Most people can use it daily , but if your skin’s feeling overwhelmed, take a few nights off and reset. There’s no prize for pushing through irritation.
Is Serum Better Than Cream For Pore Control?
Yes, especially if you’re targeting active concerns like oil or texture. Serums tend to be more concentrated and absorb deeper. Moisturizers with niacinamide are great support, but not the star player.
At KarinaNYC, we don’t just hand you a product; we build your whole routine around it. Because when niacinamide works, it works beautifully, but only when used correctly.
Biologique Recherche Favorites: Niacinamide-Powered Picks For Pores
At KarinaNYC, we don’t sell anything we haven’t tested on ourselves or our long-time clients, and when it comes to pore concerns, a few BR staples always rise to the top.
These formulas aren’t just “trending.” They work, especially when your skin needs help with oil, congestion, or uneven texture.
1. Lait S.R.
This milky cleanser is a dream for oily or acne-prone skin. It purifies without disrupting the barrier , something I find most clients are unknowingly doing with gel or foaming cleansers. Starting your routine right makes all the difference, and Lait S.R. delivers from step one.
2. Lotion P50 Or Lotion P50T
This is the holy grail for a reason. It gently exfoliates daily, keeping dead skin from building up in your pores; one of the biggest reasons they look enlarged.
Lotion P50 is my pick for balanced to oily skin types that can tolerate a bit more action.
If your skin is sensitive or reactive, start with Lotion P50T. It’s gentler but still effective, helping to balance pH, smooth texture, and prep your skin so your niacinamide serum actually works.
3. Masque Vivant
My go-to when a client says, “My skin feels congested.” This mask detoxifies without stripping, tightens the look of pores, and rebalances oily T-zones beautifully. It’s not the prettiest mask , but it’s one of the most effective I’ve ever used.
4. Biomagic Mask
This mask is rich in white clay and antioxidants, making it a powerful but gentle reset for skin that feels congested, shiny, or uneven.
It tightens the look of pores, controls sebum production, and gives the skin that clean, matte finish, without stripping or drying.
I especially love using it after Masque Vivant for clients who need both purification and firming.
5. Sérum Complexe Iribiol
Think of this as your skin’s oil manager. It’s designed for oily and breakout-prone skin, helping to refine the appearance of pores while keeping skin clear and calm.
Perfect under a lightweight cream or even mixed into your mask for a boost.
6. Serum Dermopore
If texture and visible pores are your main concern, this is the serum to add.
Sérum Dermopore helps visibly tighten and refine the look of pores over time, giving your skin a smoother, more polished finish. It layers well with Complexe Iribiol or can be used alone under your cream.
I especially love this for clients who want clearer skin without the shine.
7. Crème Dermopurifiante
A favorite among my makeup-wearing clients, it mattifies just enough while still hydrating and protecting the barrier. Plus, it’s gentle enough to use even if your skin feels a little off balance.
This cream is one of the few that truly multitasks without overwhelming.
8. Emulsion Gel Biosensible S.R.
For sensitive, acne-prone skin that still struggles with congestion, this is a lifesaver.
It’s light, calming, and helps manage oil without triggering irritation. I reach for this whenever someone’s skin is reactive but still needs support in the pore department.
Pores Still Visible? Don’t Give Up Just Yet
You’ve added niacinamide. You’ve followed the steps. But your pores still feel visible, your T-zone is still shiny, or your skin just doesn’t feel “right.” If this sounds familiar, you’re not failing, the skincare industry is.
Most people are given actives without guidance, and then told to “figure it out.” That’s not how real skin transformation happens.
At KarinaNYC, we treat pores like the symptom , not the cause. If niacinamide isn’t giving you the results you hoped for, it may be because:
- You’re using too much or layering it in hidden places (like SPF and moisturizers).
- You’ve paired it with ingredients that overstimulate or dehydrate your skin.
- You’re applying it during flare-ups or with a damaged barrier.
- Or, maybe your product wasn’t stored right and lost its effectiveness.
If you're serious about calming oil, refining texture, and restoring balance, our approach is for:
- People who are tired of guessing what works
- Clients who want high-performance skincare without trial and error
- Those struggling with enlarged pores, oily zones, and product overwhelm
🌿Get a Custom Skin Analysis
Let’s take the guesswork out. We’ll design a routine that actually works with your skin’s behavior , not against it.
🧪Shop Tested, Proven BR Products
Everything we recommend has been vetted, used, and retested in real-world conditions. If it doesn’t deliver results, we don’t keep it on our shelves.
💬Book a Consultation with KarinaNYC
Sometimes the issue isn’t the product, it’s timing, technique, or skin context. Let me walk you through it. You’ll leave empowered, not overwhelmed.
If you’ve been chasing smaller-looking pores and feel like nothing’s working, you’re not alone. But you don’t have to do it blindly.
At KarinaNYC, we believe real skincare works, when it’s personalized, consistent, and backed by care. Let’s build a plan that actually works for your skin.
